Photos for OS X is designed to appeal to a broad audience, with simple editing tools that let anyone improve their photographs. But is that it? Even though it’s a 1.0 product (replacing iPhoto and Aperture), a lot of editing power is actually hidden beneath that user-friendly surface.

For example, when you edit a photo and click the Adjust button, you’re presented with sliders for improving light and color. Dragging a slider makes the image brighter or darker (Light), or more or less saturated (Color); you can also click the Auto button that appears when the mouse pointer moves over the tool. Clicking the down-facing arrow icon, however, exposes individual controls.

That’s just the beginning.

  1. Note: The headings on this list indicate the Macintosh System bundle names; the bullet points indicate the version of the System File included in that bundle. This is to make it clearer for people searching for specific bundle versions as opposed to System File versions. Finder File versions are not indicated. 1 Classic Mac OS 1.1 Macintosh System Software (0 - 0.3) 1.1.1 System File 1 1.1.2.
  2. Fix inaccessible and grayed out folders in the OS X Finder All files and folders that you encounter when browsing the Finder in OS X should be displayed in regular font and icon color; however, there may be times when this is not the case, and one or more folders may appear grayed out and otherwise faded.

I am beginig with Mac OS X Server I have two questions. I use ARD (Apple Remote Desktop) in my classroom and i know that ARD can 'Power On ' all computers, but this function is only for Servers or is possible to Turn it on the computers. When i try to do, the ARD says 'Remote Desktop can only power on computer that support Lights Out Management.' You can turn on the keyboard light on your Mac computer so that it's easy to see the keys even in low-light conditions. To adjust the brightness of the keyboard light on your Mac, use the F5.

Jump into editing

To access the editing view, normally you click the Edit button when viewing an image, but there’s a better way: simply press the Return key. This shortcut also works in the Moments view when a photo is selected.

Shortcuts also go directly to specific tools, even if you’re not yet in the editing view. Press C to open the Crop tool, F for filters, A for the Adjust tool, R for the Retouch tool, and E for the Red-eye tool. While you’re editing, press the arrow keys to switch to the previous or next photo without leaving the editing view.

To compare your edits to the original version of the photo, press the M key for a quick before-and-after.

Choose which version to edit

If you shoot with your camera set to Raw+JPEG format (which records both a raw image and a high-resolution JPEG version), Photos treats the two separate images as one. However, the application defaults to editing the JPEG instead of the richer raw version.

To switch, open the photo in the editing view and choose Image > Use RAW as Original. (The option is disabled unless you’re in the editing view.)

Add more adjustments

The Light, Color, and Black & White adjustments in the Adjust tool are just the most common adjustments. Several more are available by clicking the Add menu (see image below). I find having the Histogram visible to be helpful, for example. If you use some controls regularly, such as White Balance, choose Save As Default at the bottom of the Add menu; those adjustments will appear every time you edit a photo.

Extend edit ranges

A funny thing happened one day when I accidentally pressed the Option key while editing a photo: The tick marks on several of the adjustment controls moved.

Many of the controls use a scale that ranges from –1.00 to +1.00, with the image’s original value sitting in the middle at zero. The Exposure control, for example, darkens the image significantly at –1.00, but doesn’t turn it black. When you hold Option, that range changes to between –2.00 and +2.00, letting you darken the photo even more (or go the other direction and brighten a dark photo).

This feature is also useful when you’re looking for more pop or an extreme treatment for a drab photo. In the images below, I’ve taken a photo of dried leaves and pushed the contrast to its initial maximum value of 1.00. With the Option key held, however, I can push that higher and get a more dramatic effect.

Multiple levels of Levels

The Histogram is good for identifying the color and tonal values in a photo, but it’s there just for reference. The Levels adjustment, however, lets you manipulate those values in some sophisticated ways. Choose Levels from the Add menu to view it.

Looking at a histogram, the left side represents dark values (with black at the far left) and the right side represents light values (with white at the far right). The colored areas within indicate the distribution of red, green, and blue (RGB) pixels within the scene. If you want to isolate and edit any of those channels, click the options menu that appears when you move your mouse cursor over the controls. You can also choose Luminance to view only the brightness values.

The teardrop-shaped handles at the bottom of the Levels histogram control (from left to right) the black point, midtones, and the white point. To brighten an image, for example, drag the white point to the left—the values to the right of the white point get pushed to their full luminance, increasing the overall brightness of the photo (see below).

Similarly, dragging the black point makes the image darker, and dragging the midtones lightens or darkens the values that fall between the light and dark extremes; the smaller handles that flank the midtones control affect shadows (left) and highlights (right). Sometimes, for instance, it may be better to adjust the midtones to brighten an image to avoid clipping, which is when pixels are pushed all the way to pure white or black.

There’s more to the Levels adjustment, however. The handles at the top of the Levels adjustment allow you to fine-tune the edits made with the bottom handles. In the image below, I’ve reduced the white point setting (by moving it to the right) so the lightest areas aren’t blown out, and then also dragged the top-center control to brighten the midtones. The result is a brighter, more saturated sky, but also detail in light areas such as the pyramid-topped building in the center of the skyline. You can also hold Option and drag a top handle to also move its connected bottom handle in unison, maintaining the relationship between the two.

Copy and paste adjustments

After you’ve edited a photo to your liking, you probably have similar shots taken at the same time that would benefit from those adjustments. Rather than try to replicate everything by hand, it’s much easier to copy the work you did on the first one and paste it onto another.

While you’re still in the editing view, choose Image > Copy Adjustments (or press Command-Shift-C). Next, switch to the unedited photo and choose Image > Paste Adjustments (or press Command-Shift-V). All the changes you made to the first apply to the second.

Looking ahead

These advanced or hidden editing features exist in the current 1.0.1 version of Photos for OS X, and there’s more to come. An update arriving with the upcoming OS X El Capitan will support editing extensions: third-party developers can create modules that will enable you to edit your images within Photos for OS X using the developer’s tools. This capability already exists on iOS—you can use the editing tools of Pixelmator or Camera Plus, to name just two examples, without leaving the Photos app on your iPhone or iPad.

For now, though, Photos for OS X turns out to be a much more capable photo editor than it first appears, which is a good place to start moving forward.

Is your Mac experiencing an extended sugar rush? You might notice that it’s suddenly not going to sleep when you close the lid. The Apple logo on your MacBook continues to glow and you can see light leak from underneath the lid to indicate that the display is still on.

There are a number of factors that could contribute to your MacBook staying awake when it shouldn’t be. If it’s a software or third-party accessory problem, you can probably fix it yourself. If it’s a hardware problem, it might need a somewhat pricey repair. Either way, let’s walk through the options.

Reset the SMC

The System Management Controller deals with lights, power, performance and more in your MacBook. Something that’s gone awry within the SMC could be responsible for your Mac refusing to go to sleep when you close the lid.

If you think a reset of the SMC might be in order to fix the problem, it’s quick and painless to your computer. First, shut down your MacBook and plug in your power adapter. Hold down Shift, Control, Option and Power keys at the same time and then release them all at the same time. Turn your computer back on.

Use your Mac normally for a few minutes, then close the lid to see if it falls asleep. If it worked, congratulations, you can stop here. If not, fear not, there are a few more options.

Reset the NVRAM (or PRAM)

There’s one more thing you should try resetting that shouldn’t affect your Mac in any way. It’s the non-volatile random-access memory, which can deal with issues involving power. On older Macs, it’s called PRAM.

Either way, to reset it, turn off your Mac. Get those fingers ready for new placement while it’s off. Then, turn your Mac back on and when the display turns on, press and hold Command, Option, P and R. When the computer restarts itself let go.

Let the computer boot up, then use it normally. After a few minutes, test closing the lid again. If your Mac still isn’t falling asleep, try option number three.

External Hard Drive Red Activity/ Access Light On All The ...

Check for Hidden Applications Using Power

You might not know it, but some applications or services that are running silently in the background might be preventing your Mac from going to sleep. To find out if this is the case and which application is causing the insomnia, there’s a simple Terminal command.

Open Terminal from your Applications folder (usually in the Utilities subfolder) or by typing “Terminal” in Spotlight Search. Then type in this command: pmset -g assertions. Hit Enter on your keyboard.

You’ll see a long list of system-wide “assertions” and a corresponding number. “1” is the equivalent of on or true and “0” is the equivalent of off or false. Check out a few of the entries about sleep like “PreventUserIdleDisplaySleep” and see note which number it has.

Lights

If you notice that the system does indicate something is preventing the computer from sleeping, scroll down to the second section labeled “Listed by owning process.” Here you can see which tasks or applications, if any, are preventing sleep.

Cached

Armed with this knowledge, you can go to those applications and quit them or stop any tasks. Then try closing the lid.

It Could Be Hardware, Let a Genius Help You Out

If your MacBook still won’t go to sleep when you close the lid, it’s probably a hardware problem at this point. If you don’t have AppleCare, you aren’t going to be too happy with the price.

Cached

When you bring your MacBook to the Genius Bar at your local Apple Store, Apple sends it out for any and all repairs whether you want them fixed or not and charges a flat repair fee. This varies from location to location.

This ultimately ended up being the case with my MacBook and the repair fee was $280. I couldn’t justify paying that for such a small issue, so as a few other damages accumulated I finally brought it in so they could all get fixed in one round. That’s your best bet.

Tip:

Why No HDD Activity Light? MacRumors Forums

It’s not too bad living with a MacBook that doesn’t sleep on its own. If you don’t want to pay for a hardware fix, just be sure to press the Power button on your keyboard to put it to sleep manually before you close the lid.

Lack Of A Hard Drive Activity Light MacRumors Forums


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